This site works fine for me. This is my ~/.fonts.conf:
<?xml version="1.0"?>
<!DOCTYPE fontconfig SYSTEM "fonts.dtd">
<fontconfig>
<!-- Additional font directories -->
<dir>~/.fonts</dir>
<match target="font" >
<edit mode="assign" name="rgba" >
<const>rgb</const>
</edit>
</match>
<match target="font" >
<edit mode="assign" name="hinting" >
<bool>true</bool>
</edit>
</match>
<match target="font" >
<edit mode="assign" name="hintstyle" >
<const>hintslight</const>
</edit>
</match>
<match target="font" >
<edit mode="assign" name="antialias" >
<bool>true</bool>
</edit>
</match>
<match target="font">
<edit mode="assign" name="lcdfilter">
<const>lcddefault</const>
</edit>
</match>
</fontconfig>
And this is what I have in /etc/fonts/conf.d directory:
> ls -l /etc/fonts/conf.d
total 4.0K
lrwxrwxrwx 1 root root 35 2009-01-20 17:39 10-sub-pixel-rgb.conf -> ../conf.avail/10-sub-pixel-rgb.conf
lrwxrwxrwx 1 root root 39 2009-01-20 17:39 20-fix-globaladvance.conf -> ../conf.avail/20-fix-globaladvance.conf
lrwxrwxrwx 1 root root 39 2009-01-20 17:39 20-unhint-small-vera.conf -> ../conf.avail/20-unhint-small-vera.conf
lrwxrwxrwx 1 root root 42 2009-01-20 17:39 29-replace-bitmap-fonts.conf -> ../conf.avail/29-replace-bitmap-fonts.conf
lrwxrwxrwx 1 root root 36 2009-01-20 17:39 30-metric-aliases.conf -> ../conf.avail/30-metric-aliases.conf
lrwxrwxrwx 1 root root 33 2009-01-20 17:39 30-urw-aliases.conf -> ../conf.avail/30-urw-aliases.conf
lrwxrwxrwx 1 root root 30 2009-01-20 17:39 40-nonlatin.conf -> ../conf.avail/40-nonlatin.conf
lrwxrwxrwx 1 root root 27 2009-01-20 17:39 45-latin.conf -> ../conf.avail/45-latin.conf
lrwxrwxrwx 1 root root 31 2009-01-20 17:39 49-sansserif.conf -> ../conf.avail/49-sansserif.conf
lrwxrwxrwx 1 root root 26 2009-01-20 17:39 50-user.conf -> ../conf.avail/50-user.conf
lrwxrwxrwx 1 root root 27 2009-01-20 17:39 51-local.conf -> ../conf.avail/51-local.conf
lrwxrwxrwx 1 root root 27 2009-01-20 17:39 60-latin.conf -> ../conf.avail/60-latin.conf
lrwxrwxrwx 1 root root 35 2009-01-20 17:39 65-fonts-persian.conf -> ../conf.avail/65-fonts-persian.conf
lrwxrwxrwx 1 root root 30 2009-01-20 17:39 65-nonlatin.conf -> ../conf.avail/65-nonlatin.conf
lrwxrwxrwx 1 root root 29 2009-01-20 17:39 69-unifont.conf -> ../conf.avail/69-unifont.conf
lrwxrwxrwx 1 root root 31 2009-01-20 17:39 80-delicious.conf -> ../conf.avail/80-delicious.conf
lrwxrwxrwx 1 root root 31 2009-01-20 17:39 90-synthetic.conf -> ../conf.avail/90-synthetic.conf
-rw-r--r-- 1 root root 959 2008-07-06 18:06 README
Also, in case you have these installed, you should try removing xorg-fonts-75dpi and xorg-fonts-100dpi packages.